Posts from — October 2009

We just got this message from one of our members, Charlie Casey. Thanks for the nice words! We’re excited to hear more and see the pictures when you return!

I got back from a 6 day cruise around Mallorca on a Bavaria 46 that a friend of mine and I chartered (we brought our kids too, total of 7 of us) and wanted to pass on some Pics and thoughts.

The weather was very cooperative; warm and some wind, but not too much wind. The Island has some beautiful scenery to be seen from the sea. We stopped at least twice a day in some nook or cranny in the cliffs to swim and eat. The water was clear and snorkeling awesome. We stayed in a different port every night (Andratx was my personal favorite), and we sailed around Cabrera, an island national park reserve with no houses (other than the Park Ranger’s). All in all, a very successful voyage.

I’m hoping you can pass on some kind words to Capt. Ray for me. He was the instructor on the CPM course I took in June, and his lessons paid off very nicely for me. He broke down passage making into 3 areas: Traffic, Weather and Boat Operations (which included Navigation). I kept this model in constant focus and it really worked well for me. I checked the weather reports regularly for weeks before hand (and twice daily once there), watching both local patterns as well as pressure zones building hundreds of miles away. I snickered to myself as I watched other charter boats get the ‘HONK of Shame’ from the Ferries and Large Liners in Palma as I steered wide and clear (SF Bay is a great training ground for that kind of thing). And, though never having skippered such a large boat, I was able to operate the boat smoothly and carefully; docking, hook up and crew management all done with experience and foresight.

Though he didn’t actually teach them, Ray modeled how to make sure crew were happy, that plans were clear and that everyone felt part of the team, which I took to heart and kept in mind as skipper.

One thing that I managed to learn to do that was not part of the course was the stern first docking, snuggling in between boats on both sides (rarely do they use finger peers here).

Though I grew up sailing, I truly value the courses I took at OCSC. I feel confident in my abilities, and part of being confident is to be wary of self confidence. “Prudence” was the word Capt. Ray used. Even as a somewhat experienced sailor, I do believe the courses are key to my being able to cruise safely. Furthermore, I’ve come to realize that folks who go cruising without taking courses like those offered at OCSC can easily be putting themselves and others at great risk, or at least bumbling about having less fun. So a big toot on the horn for OCSC and Capt. Ray from me. Thank you.

I have managed to do day sailing trips 3-5 times a month and did a 4 day cruise as crew up the Costa Brava in August. I have my eyes set on the Greek Islands in the Spring.

Life is Good,
Charlie Casey

We just got word from Jane Moon, Sales Manager at Hotel Shattuck Plaza, that they are running a special of $119/night (including breakfast) through the end of the year. This is a great option for anyone considering traveling to Berkeley to take a course at OCSC.

Here’s the info:

• Rates start at $119/night including a continental Grab & Go breakfast
• The above rate is also applicable for your friends & family
• This promotion is valid for guests checking-in between November 1, 2009 - December 30, 2009
• Reservations can be made in one of two ways

1.      From the link below, click on “Corporate Rates” and enter your corporate code https://reservations.ihotelier.com/istay.cfm?hotelid=17233

2.      Contact either Joe or Heather, M-F between 8am-5pm, for your reservation

We made it!  Today was another energetic day of trekking–both up, up, up 2200 feet (on a recently discovered royal Inca trail), then down, down, down over 3000 feet to the river valley below.  After a brief walk along the surging Aobamba River, we arrived at Hidroelectrico (Hydroelectric) a quintessential end-of.-the–train-line South American town, 45 minutes later we arrived in Aguas Calientes (Hot Springs), also known as Machu Picchu Town.  Total mileage: 7.1.  Total vertical footage: 2200 up and 3300 down.  And our OCSC team performed flawlessly!

The trek uphill took almost two hours but was totally worth the trouble, for we were hiking the very trail once used by the Inca himself, the ruler of the entire Incan ´empire´–a trail at least 600 years old, in amazing condition, and bearing the unmistakable fine workmanship of those master stonemasons.  Reaching the summit around 1130, we walked into the restored ruins of Lllactapata (´High Town¨ in the native Quechua of the Andes) to behold a sight few ever see.  For there, across a wide, deep river valley, only 2 miles as the condor flies, was all of Machu Picchu arrayed before us.  Yet it was a long, dusty hike from here to there–well over 15 miles by foot and train. 

Listening to our expert guide Dalmiro describe the history of this place, we sat transfixed, glancing at times across at the wonder we had come so far to see.  Some believe Llactapata was a shrine, others call it a watch tower, and yet others think it was merely a great rest stop with the world´s best view of what was to come.  Whatever its purpose, we felt privileged to be there and lingered for a half hour, taking photos and studying the intricate stone work.  For the entire time, we had this epic archaeological site to ourselves. 

After a brief lunch stop, it was time to descend to the river below…and 3000+ feet of steep downhill hiking is no small feat.  About half way there, we got another special Andean surprise: a flash thundershower!  Quickly donning our rain gear, we trooped on–thankful in a way for the cooling effect of the squall.  It was as if Mother Nature had decided to sprinkle down the trail so we wouldn´t get so dusty…but then she got a bit carried away.

Eventually the rain stopped and we reached the valley floor.  Striding triumphantly into the strange little company town of Hidroelectrico, we found a perfect open-air bar right above our train and passed around cold Cusqueño beers, toasting our 40-mile achievement.  Everyone had made it from the first to the last lodge under their own power, with nary a complaint.  We had much to be grateful for. 

While the group celebrated, I slipped away to find a small ruin I´d read about, called Intihuaca–a sundial cut entirely from a massive piece of granite that was one of many sacred sites the Inca placed strategically around their realm to worship the sun and to observe astronomical phenomenon.  After searching through a banana plantation, not 10 steps away from the train tracks, I found this forgotten shrine. I stood transfixed.  Here, among the litter and overgrowth and discarded railroad ties, was a site that was probably visited by shamans and Incas on their own treks to Machu Picchu.  And, like Grant´s Tomb in a lost corner of New York City, it is all but forgotten.  It was a powerful and enchanting discovery. 

By and by, we boarded our train to Machu Picchu town, enjoying a quick ride nearly to the doorstep of the luxurious InkaTerra hotel.  We found our rooms, took long, hot showers and met for yet another gourmet dinner with all the Andean trimmings.  Tomorrow, we start chapter three of this adventure as we head up to the ruins high above us.  The trek is complete; now our exploration turns to one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  What a life!

John

A long day’s hike brought us 8.5 miles down the Santa Teresa River valley, from Collcapampa to the semitropical region of Lucmabamba, our final lodge. In today’s trek, we descended another 2600 feet and are now at the comfortable level of just over 7,000 feet–Lake Tahoe conditions!  

Many interesting sights and sounds along the way included:

•  incredible views that reached from the rain forest all the way up to the snow-clad peaks of Salcantay and other majestic mountains 
•  flocks of wild parrots sailing loudly overhead
•  orchids, passion fruit, banana palms, coffee plantations and avocado groves …no more potatoes down here
•  roaring waterfalls feeding the mighty river below, one of which spilled down three levels over several hundred feet
•  a poignant good-bye to our trusty arrieros (horsemen) who have accompanied us every step of the way, replete with gifts for their kids and a lottery for the last remaining OCSC baseball cap (these things are hot commodities!)
•  and finally, a hero’s welcome at the Lucma lodge, after ascending a mile up a recently discovered, 500-year-old Inca road, a brilliant example of the engineering and aesthetic prowess of that ancient civilization.

Unfortunately, there was one sight that none of us enjoyed seeing—a new road being hacked into this wilderness on the far side of the gorge. Ever the diplomat, our guide Dalmiro explained that the road is endorsed by all the towns along the way and is considered essential to the region’s commercial development. Nonetheless, we all felt the same sense of sadness that this magical place—which has for all of human history been accessible only by foot, horse, mule or llama—should soon be a short drive away from the population centers further down the mountain. Progress or not, this is a tough thing to accept. Yet, in the Andean tradition, that is exactly what the people must do. It just is.

It’s warmer down here, even humid, and on arrival we were given icy glasses of fresh squeezed lemonade. Repairing to our rooms for showers, we emerged refreshed and ready for our next adventure. Pisco Sours in hand, we listened in rapt attention as Dalmiro outlined our last day of trekking tomorrow and our arrival at Machu Picchu that evening. We then sat down to another epicurean dinner of causas (delicious potato tarts with fish and vegetables) lomo salteado, sweet potatoes and fresh vegetables. Ending with a desert of coffee mousse and a detailed review of the topo map, we were ready for bed by 9:30. A big day’s trek tomorrow and then on to one of the Seven Wonders of the World!

¡Buenas noches!

John

Today´s theme was–descend!  In fact, we descended from 12,000 to 9600 feet today, leaving the alpine terrain of the mountains to follow the Salcantay River down into the Cloud Forest.  Conditions couldn´t be better: cool, slightly overcast and not a drop of rain all day.

After we left the comforts of the Wayra Lodge at 8:00, Dalmiro took us on a unique and fascinating side trip to the home of doña Maria, her husband and three sons.  There we saw how Andeans truly live, in many ways exactly as they have since the days of the Inca.  Her home looked like it could withstand a hurricane–made of stone, wooden beams and a thick, thatched roof.  Built on two levels, the Andean homes have a living space below and storage above, for potatoes (the miracle food of the Andes), quinoa, corn and beans.  The hearth had a spirited fire going and a pot of delicious little potatoes cooking.  But the real surprise was the home´s other inhabitants–cuy, known to us as guinea pigs.   These little guys were everywhere, especially around the stone hearth, and our guide took pains to inform us that they aren´t pets, they´re food…  After a tour of the home and yard, we offered some gifts to Doña Maria and then headed on down the pass.  In our gore-tex, backpacks and trekking poles, we wondered if she was thinking she´d just been visited by aliens from another world.  Well, she had…

The 5.5 mile trek today was a welcome respite from yesterday´s grueling climb–almost all of it downhill on a good trail that had been wetted by rains last week and was completely dust-free.  We saw bromeliads (air plants), hummingbirds, cantu (Peru´s national flower), caracaras (big black and white raptors), and a million butterflies.   It was an amazing transition to a whole new biozone.  We reached the river bottom by 1:30 and crossed the rushing Salcantay River, then a spirited hike up to the next lodge: Collcapampa.  There, we were in for an epicurean treat–a traditional Andean lunch of lamb, cuy, chicken, pork, squash, plantains, and four kinds of potatoes.  All of this was layered into a pachamanca (and Andean earth-oven) with oven-hot rocks, covered with wet leaves and buried for 45 minutes.  We all agreed the resulting feast was the best meal we´d eaten yet, which is saying a lot.

A relaxed afternoon, a dip in the hot tub, and a light dinner and everyone was headed for their feather beds by 9:00 pm.  OK, so we´re not technically ¨roughing it¨…but someone´s gotta do this!

Tomorrow: 9.5 miles into the jungle.

John

Another update from John Racanelli and the crew on the Machu Picchu Adventure…

A big day for the OCSC trek today…we successfully made it over the 15,300 foot pass of Mt Salcantay!  We were surrounded by 20,000 foot peaks all around us, with exotic names like Humantay, Tucarpay and of course, the granddaddy of them all: 21,000 foot Salcantay, towering another mile above us.  I could not be more proud of our group–everyone made it up and over under their own power and I never heard a complaint, even when trudging up the infamous Siete Culebras (Seven Snakes), a mean set of switchbacks that ascend nearly 1000 feet in barely twice that distance… Ultimately, we covered 8.1 miles in nearly 6 hours’ trekking–most of it uphill.

Here are a few more highlights of the day:

-A hailstorm that gave us all a chance to wear every stitch of fleece and raingear, then fizzled as fast as it came.

-Several avalanches far up the slope of Mt Salcantay, punctuated by crackling ice that sounded like gunshots.

-Trains of horses and mules trotting by on the trail with little twinkling bells announcing their coming (ie, get out of the way!).

-A delicious lunch in a cozy tent halfway back down the mountain–with Andean soup, a hearty pasta, pears in port wine and steaming mugs of coca tea.  [Read more →]

We just got word from John Racanelli, the Trip Leader for OCSC’s Machu Picchu Adventure. Here’s his report…

Our trek got underway today with an invigorating 4.5-mile ´acclimation´ hike to a glacier lake at 14,000 feet.  We hit the trail at the civilized hour of 9:00 am, all of us excited at the prospect of seeing condors, climbing higher than they´d ever gone, and seeing an Andean glacier close up.  And we weren´t disappointed!

We left our palacial Soraypampa Lodge and started up the trail laden with gear: daypacks full of fleece and raingear, cameras, several GPS´s, trekking poles, boots, ponchos, water bottles, safari hats and about 1000 other items we considered necesary to survive the rigors of the Andes.  Within 10 minutes we´d met a family walking merrily down the trail–all wearing variations of the hoodie-khakis-sandals theme. These folks are hardy up here!

Our incredibly talented guides Dalmiro and Guido kept us out of harm´s way as we ascended pampas (meadows), a rushing river, and several increasingly steep inclines.  I could not have been more proud of our group–no complaints, lots of good cheer and a solid, steady pace.  Huffing and puffing, we climbed over 1500 vertical feet in 2.25 miles, arriving around noon at a stunningly beautiful alpine lake fed by the glacier that reaches up towards the peak of Nevado Huamantay another mile above.  We sat down to eat our well-earned snacks, and right on cue, two majestic condors soared out over the aquamarine lake, riding thermals high up the mountain´s side.  Although they´re carrion eaters (ie, they eat dead things), these beautiful birds are the largest in the world with a wingspan exceeding 10 feet!

Continuing a long-standing tradition started on OCSC´s first trek by founder Anthony Sandberg, I was forced to take a 10-minute swim in the 47-degree lake (well, maybe I did enjoy it just a little…), arriving back at the beach in time to hear our trusty horse wranglers saying something about ¨those loco gringos.¨  Leaving our packs, we hiked on up to a higher, colder lake that´s often frozen over.  Dalmiro explained that these days, unfortunately, it seldom freezes and is endlessly fed by meltwater from the glacier.  We could hear the pistol-cracks of the ice coming apart as we sat there…another sad consequence of global climate change right here in the Andean wilderness.

Predictably, the hike down was a cake-walk, as we traded back our hard-earned altitude.  Arriving at the lodge, we were greeted warmly by the very professional staff who awaited us with steaming mugs of coca tea–a most invigorating tonic for adjusting to high-altitude.  Then came a sumptuous lunch, followed by time to chill, play games, read, have a Cusqueño beer and look at the outstanding pictures of condors and snow-capped Mount Salcantay captured by our group.  At the stroke of 5:00 pm, most of us were headed for the hot tub, whose front-row view of the famous mountain had us all rubbing our eyes to be sure it was real.  As the sun set, the white mountain turned a rosy pink, seeming to beckon us to come closer…

And that´s just what we´ll do tomorrow, on what will be our longest day´s hike of the trek at 8.5 miles. More importantly, we´ll ascend another 1000 feet higher than we did today (ie, a total of 2500 feetI), crossing the famous pass at 15,300 feet, just as the Inca and many Andean peoples before them have done for hundreds of years.  With tomorrow´s endeavor very much on our minds, we were well-behaved this evening in spite of a fascinating tasting of Pisco Sours, Peru´s national drink. After a thorough briefing by our guides and another delicious dinner, we drifted off to our rooms to pack, psyche and sink into feather beds to contemplate tomorrow´s visit to mighty Mt. Salcantay.

¡Vamos!

John

Imagine an ocean without fish. Imagine your meals without seafood. Imagine the global consequences. This could be the future if we do not stop, think and act.

The End of the Line, the first major feature documentary film revealing the impact of overfishing on our oceans, examines the imminent extinction of bluefin tuna, brought on by increasing western demand for sushi; the impact on marine life resulting in huge overpopulation of jellyfish; and the profound implications of a future world with no fish that would bring certain mass starvation.

Oceana, along with the producers of the film, have arranged a special screening in San Francisco at the Kabuki Theater. The screening is free for  ocean supporters. Please RSVP and to let them know you are coming (seating is limited).

When: Thursday, October 22 at 7 PM

Where: Kabuki Theater
1881 Post Street at Fillmore
San Francisco, CA 94115

Tickets: The screening is free but seating is limited and reservations are required. If you have any questions, please contact Caroline Ketzler at cketzler@oceana.org or 202.467.1927.

Providing a final and affirmative answer to the age-old question, “Are there really sharks in the San Francisco Bay?” Aquarium of the Bay is proud to present SHARKtober, a month-long celebration of these enigmatic animals.  Sharktober will star San Francisco Bay sharks: the mighty Sevengill, Soupfin, Leopard, Brown Smoothhound and Spiny Dogfish, as well as special guest stars that live just outside the Golden Gate, including Swells and Angel Sharks.

SHARKtober Daily Activities - October 1-31, 10am-6pm

Shark-related scavenger hunts, live shark touching, shark hats, shark talks and shark films at the Aquarium.  Special shark feeding presentations on Thursdays and Sundays at 1:30 pm.

Cost: Free with Aquarium admission
Info: www.aquariumofthebay.org or 415-623-5300

SHARKtoberfest Party/Fundraiser - Friday, October 16, 2009, 6:30 - 10:00pm

[Read more →]